Independent watchmaking often thrives on creativity, unconventional ideas and a willingness to challenge traditional approaches to time display. The Racer Retro by Anton Suhanov perfectly embodies this philosophy. Created by the Russian independent watchmaker known for his innovative complications, the Racer Retro combines mechanical ingenuity with a design language inspired by classic automobiles.
Anton Suhanov entered the world of horology through engineering rather than traditional watchmaking education. After graduating from the Polytechnic University in St. Petersburg, he joined the manufacture of Konstantin Chaykin in 2007 as chief designer. There he developed a strong expertise in complex mechanical constructions and unusual horological concepts. His talent was further recognized in 2016 when he won the Young Talents Competition supported by François-Paul Journe with a remarkable triple-axis tourbillon clock.
Following this success, Anton Suhanov founded his own brand and manufacture, focusing on highly original mechanical creations. While his early works were mainly table clocks featuring complex tourbillon mechanisms, he soon turned his attention to wristwatches. In 2021, he introduced his first wristwatch, the Racer Jumping Hour GMT, a model inspired by the visual language of car dashboards.
A Different Approach to Automotive Watch Design
Many watches inspired by automobiles tend to reference specific car brands, racing chronographs or technical instruments used in motorsports. Anton Suhanov chose a very different direction. Rather than copying visual elements from the automotive industry, he focused on the universal experience shared by millions of drivers: the view of the dashboard instruments while driving.
The Racer Retro translates this familiar visual experience into an unconventional time display. The retrograde minutes evoke the movement of a speedometer, while the retrograde jumping hours resemble the motion of a tachometer. This interpretation creates an intuitive and dynamic way of reading time while remaining mechanically sophisticated.
The aesthetic language of classic cars is also visible throughout the watch. The sandy-beige color of the retrograde subdials recalls the wooden steering wheels commonly found in sports cars of the 1960s and 1970s. The hands feature distinctive perforations reminiscent of steering wheel spokes, further reinforcing the automotive theme.
A Skeletonized Dial Revealing the Mechanics
One of the major evolutions introduced with the Racer Retro compared to the original Racer model is the skeletonized dial. Anton Suhanov realized that the movement developed for the Racer Jumping Hour GMT was too beautiful to remain hidden beneath the dial.
To reveal the mechanics, the dial of the Racer Retro features several openings that allow the wearer to observe the intricate retrograde mechanisms and the GMT display system in motion. The dark ruthenium-coated dial components and the black-treated movement parts create a deep, monochromatic background where the polished steel elements appear to float within the dial.
This architectural approach to dial design reflects Suhanov’s philosophy that fine watchmaking should not only tell time but also provide visual enjoyment through mechanical beauty.
The Su100.25 Movement
At the heart of the Racer Retro lies the caliber Su100.25 automatic movement. Based on the reliable ETA 2824-2, the movement has been extensively modified by Anton Suhanov to integrate his proprietary indication module.
This module, entirely designed and manufactured by Suhanov, contains 132 components and is responsible for the complex retrograde displays and the jumping GMT function. The movement operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers a power reserve of approximately 38 hours.
Another distinctive element is the full-disc oscillating weight visible through the sapphire caseback. Unlike the flat rotor of the previous Racer model, the Racer Retro features a domed rotor with circular brushing. Its design subtly references the large chrome hubcaps found on classic American cars of the 1950s.
A Limited Independent Creation
The Racer Retro is produced in a limited edition of only 28 pieces, emphasizing its exclusivity within the world of independent watchmaking. Each watch is housed in a cushion-shaped stainless steel case measuring 39 mm by 39 mm with a thickness of 12.5 mm, offering a balanced and wearable presence on the wrist.
The case design itself follows the geometry of a Reuleaux polygon, giving the watch its distinctive silhouette. Subtle modifications to the lugs further enhance the dynamic character of the watch compared to the original Racer model.
Paired with a high-quality brown leather strap and a buckle designed by Anton Suhanov in the shape of a sportscar spoiler, the Racer Retro completes its automotive narrative with thoughtful design details.
A Distinctive Voice in Independent Watchmaking
With the Racer Retro, Anton Suhanov demonstrates once again that independent watchmaking is often driven by personal vision and creative freedom. By combining automotive inspiration with unconventional mechanical displays, he has created a watch that stands apart from traditional sports watches or classic complications.
Rather than simply referencing the world of motorsports, the Racer Retro captures the emotional connection many enthusiasts feel toward classic cars and mechanical engineering. It is a watch designed not only to measure time, but also to celebrate the beauty of mechanical motion and the creativity of independent horology.
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